General Notes:
Use 2.5" ribbon from Hobby Lobby. Cut the 3-yard piece in half. Bring all ends together and cut the notches at once. Tie a large bow, letting the customer cut the hanging pieces if they want. I need to buy the ribbon, it is on sale, and I also need to check with Teresa to see if she has any 2.5" ribbon. Note: I tried the 1 1/2-inch ribbon, but it was too thin. The first fabric I tried from my stash was the right color on the front, but grayish white on the back, so that didn't work. I did buy some fabric that was the same color on both sides, and I might try it sometime, but the ribbon seems to be working for now. In case I decide to do fabric ribbons, here's a link to the video that shows how to do it:
Preparing the hoop:
I tried several techniques, and my favorite was using sticky tear-away stabilizer. I cut a piece of stabilizer to fit in the hoop and then removed the backing. I then secured the stabilizer, sticky side up, in the hoop.
Preparing the fabric:
I cut a piece of fusible fleece 13" by 13"
Iron the fusible fleece to the bottom, wrong side on the white fabric, which I cut 16 1/2" x 13".
I always mark the front of solid fabrics with a pen, just in case it matters.
On the front of the fabric, mark 4" from the bottom of the fleece end of the white fabric. This is the mark where the bottom of the text should print.
Next, look at the design pulled up on the machine to see how far the bottom of the text is from the center point of the design. For example, if it is about 3 inches from the center horizontal line to the bottom of the text, draw another line three inches about the line you drew in the last step. This is the line that needs to be lined up to the horizontal center of the hoop.
Fold the piece in half vertically, lining this crease and the horizontal line drawn above on the hoop. Fold the material back out. I put a pen on each of the four sides to help hold the fabric in place.
Now, it's time to embroidery. I think it's best to babysit the machine while it does its thing. You never know when the bobbin will run out or some gremlin will mess with the machine. It's easier to be right there to catch the machine if it messes up.
Bows and Branches
I did this one in one two colors, pink and green. I used Brothread 124 (pink) and Brothread 502 (green)
I used the 8x8 design, reducing it as much as possible at the machine. I'd like to try this with the 5x7 design to see if the reduced size looks nicer on the final product.
Fishing Crest
I want to document the threads I used, as I will make some different choices next time. Overall, it worked, though.
Name, monogram, duckhead, and bow: Brothread 534
Interior of the bow: Threadart 223
Frame: Brothread 323
Fishing pole, fins, duck throat: Metler 218
Duck body: Coat & Clark S910 H6 8120
Duck beak & Flower: Brothread 214
Fish & Antlers: Glide 24665 (Note: I did the antlers in the same color as whatever the other elements were in the design. I didn't like it, so I backed up the stitching, switched the thread to Glide 24665 and redid them. Great decision!
Details on ribbon: Brothread 058
Laurel: Threadart 223
The Trim-Up
I did this a few different ways. Here's what I think I ended up doing...
Place the front and back fabrics right-sides together.
Trim the bottom of the fabric 3.5 inches below the bottom of the fabric. Pin the fabric and take it to the machine, stitching a 1/4" seam allowance.
Back at the cutting table, line the 5.75" mark up with the exact center of the fabric, cutting the edge with the rotary cutter.
Turn the fabric, line the 5.75" mark up with the exact center of the fabric. The other side should be on the 11.5" ruler line. Cut. Put a few pins in and stick up both sides
On the unsewn end, measure up 1.5" from the top of the fleece. Cut. Stitch this end, leaving a three inch gap for turning the material. Note: This part is going to be based on how well you completed all the other steps and will need to be tweaked. Ideally, you want the un-fleeced part to turn down about 1.25" onto the fleece, creating the pocket for the dowel rod.
Trim the seam allowance at the point. Flip the piece right side out. Use a purple thang or whatever you prefer to push out the points and corner. Also press the seam on the unsewn area under. Do a good job pressing and it will make the final step easier.
Final Step: Fold the top down onto the back, using an ironing guide or ruler to make sure the piece remains straight at the top. Stitch about an 1/8" from the edges, catching the open seam.